The Rise of Hongdae: Seoul's Indie Music Scene Flourishes Beyond K-pop
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| The Rise of Hongdae: Seoul's Indie Music Scene Flourishes Beyond K-pop |
In the vibrant streets of Hongdae, one of Seoul’s most eclectic neighborhoods, a thriving indie music scene plays out every night. While many outsiders associate South Korean music with K-pop, within the tight-knit community of Hongdae, a different musical culture thrives. On any given evening, you can hear the sounds of buskers performing on the streets, but the real magic happens inside intimate venues such as Cafe Unplugged, where independent musicians are carving out their own space in a city best known for its idol pop stars.
Step into Cafe Unplugged, and at first glance, it resembles any trendy cafe with cozy wooden tables and guitars propped against the walls. A glance around reveals a collection of musical instruments, books, vinyl records, and stationery scattered throughout the space. Patrons sip on tea or coffee, unwinding in the relaxing atmosphere. However, the heart of this venue lies below, where the music begins to unfold. Through a stairwell plastered with flyers promoting local acts, you’ll find a small, packed performance room, with about 60 chairs facing a modest stage.
Cafe Unplugged has been an integral part of Hongdae’s indie music community for over 20 years. Its owner, Jinyoung Kang, has been instrumental in sustaining this creative environment, offering a platform for emerging artists. While the venue hosts different acts nightly, Kang also reserves Mondays for open mic nights, giving five or six musicians or groups the opportunity to perform. According to Kang, it’s more than just a business venture: “It’s a collaborative effort between planners, performers, and the audience to bring this space to life.”
How Hongdae Became Seoul’s Indie Hub
The story of Hongdae’s indie music scene goes back to the early 1990s when a few pioneering venues like Drug, Rollinghall, and Club BBang began to pop up. At the time, the neighborhood was known for its low rents, allowing these small venues to take root. This affordability attracted creative communities, including artists, musicians, and students, transforming the area into a haven for independent music. What started as a few clubs dedicated to giving underground musicians a stage soon blossomed into a scene that drew audiences eager for something different from the glitzy, high-production K-pop.
During the 2000s, as Hongdae’s popularity increased, more venues joined the scene. Cafes like Strange Fruit, Jebidabang, Club FF, and Cafe Veloso provided additional spaces for artists to perform and connect with fans. Over time, Hongdae became synonymous with the indie music scene in South Korea, with bands and musicians identifying the neighborhood as the best place to start their musical careers.
However, Hongdae's increasing popularity as a hotspot for art and culture brought a rise in rents, which began to push out many of the smaller clubs. The legendary Drug club, once an iconic venue in the scene, closed due to financial struggles, despite multiple attempts to raise awareness about the venue’s importance. When the COVID-19 pandemic hit, the situation worsened. Several clubs were forced to close their doors for good, and the ones that remained relied on special events, government assistance, and the support of the local community to stay afloat.
Yet, venues like Cafe Unplugged have managed to survive, primarily by charging admission fees to ensure a steady revenue stream. Kang stresses that ticket sales have been crucial in keeping indie bands financially supported. “Since Korea doesn’t have a tipping culture, we rely on ticket sales to support the artists. We share the revenue from the sales with the performers and planners based on a set ratio, allowing us to create a financially sustainable space,” he explains.
Indie Musicians Navigating the K-pop-Dominated Scene
For many around the world, South Korean music is synonymous with K-pop, a multi-billion-dollar industry that has turned its idols into global superstars. However, the indie scene in Hongdae is built on a completely different ethos. Venues like Cafe Unplugged focus exclusively on giving emerging artists and groups the opportunity to showcase their original music, away from the glitz of the idol industry. These clubs are often seen as stepping stones for musicians trying to build a following or break into the broader music market.
One such band that began their career in the clubs of Hongdae is Crying Nut, a legendary group in the South Korean indie music world. They started out performing in small venues and slowly built up a dedicated fan base. Their 1998 debut album was a breakthrough, selling over 100,000 copies—a remarkable achievement for an indie band at the time. Crying Nut’s success paved the way for other indie artists, showing that it was possible to break through the K-pop-dominated landscape without compromising their musical identity.
Since then, numerous other artists have followed in their footsteps. Bands like Hyukoh and The Rose, as well as singer-songwriters like Kim Sawol and Lee Seung-yoon, all started their careers performing in intimate venues like Cafe Unplugged before gaining widespread recognition. While some have gone on to achieve commercial success and perform internationally, others remain fiercely independent, valuing creative freedom over mainstream success.
Yet, despite their differences from K-pop, many indie musicians are still often categorized under the same umbrella, especially by international media. This is a point of contention for artists who feel that their work has little in common with the highly produced, performance-driven world of idol groups. Crying Nut, for example, was promoted as part of a “K-pop Night Out” event when they performed at SXSW, an association they found somewhat misleading given their punk rock roots.
The members of indie rock band Hyukoh have also spoken about how their association with the K-pop brand has helped them gain recognition, but they are quick to clarify that they don’t see themselves as part of that industry. “We aren’t idols,” explains Manjo Park of the indie band Yippee, who regularly performs at Cafe Unplugged. “We are a band that grew up listening to The Beatles and writing our own songs.”
Music critic Yoona Kim, who has long followed the evolution of South Korean music, sees K-pop’s global dominance as a double-edged sword for indie artists. While it has helped shine a spotlight on Korean culture and music, it has also overshadowed the diverse range of genres being created in Korea. However, she remains optimistic. “There are bands like Silica Gel, who have been around for a decade and are only now gaining wider recognition,” she notes. “If K-rock and indie music get more exposure internationally, they have the potential to resonate with fans who are currently focused on K-pop.”
The Intersection of Indie and K-pop on Hongdae’s Streets
While Hongdae’s music venues are the lifeblood of the indie scene, the neighborhood’s streets also play a significant role in nurturing new talent. Busking has become an essential part of Hongdae’s identity, and over the years, street performances have evolved into a major tourist attraction. It’s common to find the streets filled with singers, dancers, bands, and even magicians vying for attention from passersby. Although indie musicians are well-represented, the busking scene has increasingly leaned into K-pop, with aspiring idols and dance cover teams drawing large crowds and generating buzz on social media.
Hongdae’s busking scene wasn’t always so popular. For a long time, buskers were seen as a nuisance, and there were attempts to curb the number of street performers. However, attitudes have shifted, and now the area’s street performances are a major draw for tourists eager to experience live music and dance up close. Even indie bands, who typically avoid being lumped in with K-pop, are not immune to the allure of street performances.
Manjo Park, whose band Yippee frequently performs on the streets, acknowledges the challenges of busking. “Busking in Hongdae is a long-standing tradition that still doesn’t get the respect it deserves,” he says. Social media traction for busking performances can be slow, with posts often receiving minimal engagement. “It takes about 10 years for a band to really get noticed,” he adds. “Most of the time, it’s just people walking by who stop to watch for a few minutes.”
Despite these challenges, busking remains a crucial stepping stone for many indie artists hoping to gain recognition. Bands like The Rose, Band Gift, and Zitten all started their careers busking in Hongdae before moving on to play at clubs and festivals. However, the competition among indie musicians has intensified in recent years. With fewer venues available and increasing pressure on clubs to remain financially viable, securing gigs has become a difficult task for many.
Looking to the Future: Indie Music's Global Aspirations
Despite the hardships, Hongdae remains a vital part of Seoul’s indie music ecosystem. For musicians like Park, the ultimate goal is to reach beyond South Korea’s borders and perform on the international stage. “Indoor shows are the pinnacle for indie musicians,” Park explains. “There aren’t many venues where we can perform, but I believe we can change the Korean music market.”
Park dreams of one day performing at Coachella, believing that his music has the potential to transcend cultural boundaries and influence the broader music industry in Korea. His belief in the power of indie music reflects the spirit of many artists who have honed their craft in Hongdae’s clubs and streets. While K-pop may dominate the headlines, the indie scene continues to thrive, offering an alternative to the polished perfection of idol culture.
Ultimately, the future of South Korean indie music lies in its ability to connect with audiences both at home and abroad. As more musicians gain international recognition and genres like K-rock begin to attract wider attention, Hongdae’s role as the cradle of Korea’s indie music scene will remain pivotal. Whether through venues like Cafe Unplugged or the bustling streets filled with buskers, Hongdae’s spirit of creativity and collaboration will continue
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